Brake Shoes - Any Ideas??

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Had an interesting thing happen today - normally I have pretty good braking from the ('68 250 SGS) rear wheel, but today they faded out on me. Let me preface this by saying I was using up what brake pad I had left in there, but it appears the time has come to replace them with something with more meat on them. It was really fun to find out as I was coasting down a hill towards a Stop sign...

I'm going to pull the wheel and take a look, but what are y'all using for brake pads? Is there a suitable substitute/bolt-on option (EBC, Ebay, etc.) or do I have to have them re-lined? And what's that cost?

[bocutter]

It looks like Motorwest will reline for $50 a pair. RBO lists them for ~12€ each.

Edit: RBO is also an exchange.

[R1100purist]

I was wondering the same thing. My plan after seeing the price for motorwest's was to do this: http://www.bmacinc.com/wp-content/uploa ... hoes-1.pdf

Also anyone know the original pad thickness?

[Dr. Frankenstein]

NICE!! That doesn't look too hard at all, and talk about a nice little cottage industry there. Can you post a pic of the riveter you used? I assume it was a hand one, but I've never used on before; although the wife might have something to say about baking brakes in the oven...Oh Well! Harbor Freight Here I Come! What was the cost of the glue and brake material? Speaking of which regarding the thickness, if its too thick you might be able to sand the shoe down until it fits; I did that with some aftermarket pads for my CA95. How long did it take? Do they work OK? And would a regular countersink bit work? ( I assume so...); and how did you make that extension tool? Any pics of that?

[R1100purist]

Dr. Frankenstein, I wish I put together that tutorial. It was something I found after facing a similar conundrum like you. I haven't done the procedure yet, but it seems like what the tutorial says, McMaster Carr has all the supplies.

I was going to use a standard rivet gun, like one would find at Harbor freight...as this probably won't be a job I do all that often. Either way my plan was just to reverse engineer the stock pads using whatever size rivet seems most appropriate and go from there. Same with the countersink, I was going to use what I had on hand in my little drill bit box as well.

I was thinking 3/16" for the friction material seemed about right. The next step up from McMaster is about 1/4" or 6mm which seems a bit much, but maybe it would work?

[R1100purist]

I still haven't purchased the supplies as I was doing more research and found out about these guys:

https://industrialbrakeclutch.com/2016/ ... -relining/

I am waiting to here back on a quote and if it is less than what I can do DIY, I may just go for it. I will let you know!

[bocutter]

I was thinking 3/16" for the friction material seemed about right. The next step up from McMaster is about 1/4" or 6mm which seems a bit much, but maybe it would work?

From RBO's older 'shop' they reshoe two variants:
original 4 mm thick, delivery only against return of the old brake shoes.
or
5 mm thick, for overwinding for best braking effect.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

5mm thick? What's the width? And length, while we're at it...