PUCH 250 SGS

Restoring a barn-fresh 1966 Sears Allstate

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New tires – old Puch

Original Semperit tire.

Original Semperit tire.

The original equipment Semperit tires on the ’66 Puch 250 SGS are getting a wee bit, well, tired. With my current push to get the old girl road legal I’ve ordered tires and checked the brake pads. Really, it’s time I showed the bike some love, especially after several years of being ridden hard and put away wet at Paris, literally.

I’ve ordered a pair of Duro HF319 from a local dealer, the tread pattern looks pretty vintage so they should look right.

DURO_HF-319

Part number : 113113

  • Designed as a general replacement tire
  • Excellent load carrying capabilities
  • Can be used as a front and rear tire
  • Excellent puncture resistance

I mean really, isn’t that the basic description of a tire?!

I will also look into getting a 16″ rim for the Velorex to lower the hack as it is currently wearing a 19″ – then perhaps I’ll need another Duro.

Sears Allstate Puch 175 60_57

click to enlarge

 

I came upon this page from a Sears catalogue a while back, it is a great illustration of the Puch badged as a Sears Allstate, although I think the illustrator didn’t understand how brake and clutch levers worked. I’m pretty intrigued by the brown sack outfit the guy on the left is wearing. Is that rain gear? 

 

 

 

 

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Snow can’t stop a Puch

IMAGE: JOHN CHILLINGWORTH/PICTURE POST/GETTY IMAGES

Photographer John Chillingworth took these photos at the 1953 Motorcycle Skiing championships, held at Ehrwald in Tyrol, Austria. The skiers held on to ropes attached to the backs of motorcycles  — some even with sidecars — which had spiked wheels to grip the snow.

German skier Karl Baier won the championship that year. In four years of racing, his driver had never been hurt.

The pictures were first featured in the UK’s Picture Post magazine, which featured more than 400 of Chillingworth’s photo essays.

Originally posted on Mashable.

posted by Fastback in cool bikes,Puch and have No Comments

Cool Puch

I was at a cabin in the Laurentians last week and I found myself leafing through a 2004 Vanity Fair, as one is apt to do on lazy summer days.  My eye was caught by familiar looking object int he magazine –  the Puch air filter! Lo and behold there was the king of Cool, James Dean, sitting on a Puch/Allstate on the set of Rebel Without A Cause. If you read the fine print the photo has been colourized, so I am not sure it is a green bike, but it looks like the 125cc with the skinny shocks and small headlight.

Puch_James_Dean

posted by Fastback in cool bikes,museums,rants & rambling and have No Comments

it all went black

In my mania to get the bike together for the CVMG rally, I’ve sprayed the nacelle, chain guard and fender with Tremclad.  The nacelle is in the bbq as I type, the toddler is in her bed trying not to nap, and the baby is on the floor chewing whatever she can get her hands on…

hold the sauce

hold the sauce

On previous projects I’ve gone all out and sprayed professional primer, base and clear, the biggest challenge has always been dust, dust, dust but clear-coat is pretty forgiving and can be sanded and polished. This is my first attempt at shooting Tremclad for a nice finish. The paint is on old can of Tremclad (Canadian name, it’s Rustoleum in the US) It is a tough rust paint (as the name suggests).

IMG_0217_fender_prime

In the spray booth, ran out of grey primer, had to run out and get some...

I thinned the paint with Laquer Thinner (a quick drying solvent), and sprayed it with a compressor/gun, it does come in rattle cans too. I painted my trailer with it and I remember it taking forever to dry, like a week. IMG_0225_fender_primeI’ve used 2 part professional auto paints previously but for this I just wanted it black and shiny, I was also in a rush so into the bbq it goes. I read somewhere that a good bake at 300° will set it up, and it did do the trick. I was worried that it might create problems with the body filler and primer, but nope, all good. I let it dry for about 2 hours so it was just tacky to the touch, then I gave it a cook, my deep fry/candy thermometer read about 280°so I thought it would be safe. As there is no chemical reaction happening, just the evaporation of solvents I figure a bake is just expediting the process; someone commented on a forum that baking might interfere with the rate and order in which the solvents evaporate, I figure if it doesn’t wrinkle, then it’s ok. A funny thing has happened, the longer I stare at my neglected, rusty, corroded and oxidized motorcycle, the more I like it that way. Paul,  from the outset, insisted I should just give it the “oily rag” finish, I was bent on sandblasting my way to Germanic perfection. Now Malcolm is urging me to just leave it alone too. The problem is, I’ve made a shiny spot or two and now I’m at a crossroads. Do I continue making shiny parts, or beat up the new stuff to look old..?

IMG_0238_fender_black_1

Got some bubbling from a few spots of spot filler that didn’t dry long enough, but for this bike at this stage it is certianly good enough. Don’t be fooled the photos look great but there is lots of dust, some spits and bumps in it, but overall I am really happy with my cheap and cheerful paint job.

IMG_0238_fender_black

There are a few dips, dots and the bottom edge is a bit ragged from chipping that I didn’t chase after…

posted by Fastback in restoration and have No Comments

Twingle motor in a crate.

NOS Puch 250 motor

NOS Puch 250 motor

Ebay listing in Alabama:

250cc Sears Allstate twingle puch motor new in original Sears shipping crate. Includes mufflers and tailpipes, new carburetor, new coil, everything needed to install.

Bidding started at $1,100 with a final selling price of a whopping $1,651.00  USD – with only 9 bids! I gotta say that is over triple what I paid for the whole bike… mind you mine is a bit rusty, but still. I wouldn’t have imagined these parts fetching such a high price.

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