PUCH 250 SGS

Restoring a barn-fresh 1966 Sears Allstate

Ameliasburg 2016

After getting the engine back from Herb Becker, it sat in the garage.  As the Quinte CVMG rally in Ameliasburg approached I quickly got my 750 Norton Commando together, only running the day before heading out to Ameliasburg.

Paul and I left Toronto taking my favorite route out of the city. Up the DVP/404 to Elgin Mills, north on Warden to 19th line and then following 19th till it ended at York Durhan Line, north to Uxbridge Pickering Town Line. The corner has a great 1920’s garage across from a looming subdivision. We followed that until it ended at Glen Manor Forest and took Concession 7 north to Goodwood Rd (#21) till it hooked up with 7a. We then followed it to Cavan to pick up Malcom. Here’s the route https://goo.gl/maps/dZ77vWiaHTk

We left around 11 and got to Cavan Hall just around 1. At Malcolm’s house I noticed that the oil return line was slipping off so I put in on properly. Unfortunately I pulled the hose loose at the oil filter end and it slipped off 5 min down the road. At first I thought my clutch was slipping as the engine revved when I gave it throttle – it was the back tire spinning. I was in the middle of figuring out what was going on when Paul pulled up and motined to pull over. Poor guy was covered in oil, from boots to fairing and helmet, he even tasted it. At least it was nice new oil on a rebuild…  I got the hose on properly on the roadside, Malcolm eventually doubled back and found us.
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Seized

old_plate

Been a while since this plate was used – shame to cover up the sticker.

I guess expecting reliability from a 49 year-old un-rebuilt engine is unrealistic. I was happy so far as I’ve only addressed cosmetic issues and suspension. My luck has run out.

I was on my way from the licensing office to work on my first “legal” drive. Was doing about 60-65km when I lost power and then the rear wheel locked up. Pulled the clutch and pulled over, the engine turned over but it feels like compression is down, although there is compression. With two cylinders and a shared space it is difficult to tell which cylinder has an issue.

Question now is, full rebuild? Source of the problem? Lean carb, oil delivery – cable or pump? The bike was running great a few days earlier and did the same stretch of road no problem.

This page might come in handy when I get the head off, it shows how to read the piston damage from a seizure.

http://www.theultralightplace.com/READING-2-STROKE-PISTONS.html

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CVMG Paris Rally: 2015

Another Paris Rally, great weather – here’s a few pics of what caught my eye this year.

 

 

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New tires – old Puch

Original Semperit tire.

Original Semperit tire.

The original equipment Semperit tires on the ’66 Puch 250 SGS are getting a wee bit, well, tired. With my current push to get the old girl road legal I’ve ordered tires and checked the brake pads. Really, it’s time I showed the bike some love, especially after several years of being ridden hard and put away wet at Paris, literally.

I’ve ordered a pair of Duro HF319 from a local dealer, the tread pattern looks pretty vintage so they should look right.

DURO_HF-319

Part number : 113113

  • Designed as a general replacement tire
  • Excellent load carrying capabilities
  • Can be used as a front and rear tire
  • Excellent puncture resistance

I mean really, isn’t that the basic description of a tire?!

I will also look into getting a 16″ rim for the Velorex to lower the hack as it is currently wearing a 19″ – then perhaps I’ll need another Duro.

Sears Allstate Puch 175 60_57

click to enlarge

 

I came upon this page from a Sears catalogue a while back, it is a great illustration of the Puch badged as a Sears Allstate, although I think the illustrator didn’t understand how brake and clutch levers worked. I’m pretty intrigued by the brown sack outfit the guy on the left is wearing. Is that rain gear? 

 

 

 

 

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Amal tips

Amal - high speed modI had my Amal concentric carbs sleeved by Bruce Chessel of Woodstock ON – it was the best thing I’ve done for the bike. Sleeving the carb is actually a bit of a misnomer as it is the slide that gets sleeved, the body is just bored out and the slide is sleeved in brass to prevent galling from like metals.

I stumbled upon this service bulletin in a forum the other day and thought it worthy of reposting. My 750 commando is so thirsty at WOT that i need to open both fuel taps to keep the engine from stumbling – perhaps this will give a bit more top end?

Here’s a note from Dave Comeau (Atlantic Green Technical Services) when I was running 32mm carbs before I got the original 30mm Amals re-sleeved:

The ’70 model you show on your website, assuming it is the one with carb problem would not have originally been a 32mm. However that is not a big deal that they are not 30mm.
Your symptom of rough running at just off idle/light cruise is indeed….. cutaway.
Raising the needle will have more affect at bigger throttle settings.
If you have combat carbs with 3 cutaway, you will do better if you mod them to 3-1/2 or try them at 3-1/4 before you go all the way to the full 1/2.
IIRC each cutaway # is 1/16″ ,,,,,so a 3 cutaway is 3/16″
1/2 is 1/32″ custom 1/4 is 1/64″

posted by Fastback in mechanical,performance,restoration and have No Comments