PUCH 250 SGS

Restoring a barn-fresh 1966 Sears Allstate

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New tires – old Puch

Original Semperit tire.

Original Semperit tire.

The original equipment Semperit tires on the ’66 Puch 250 SGS are getting a wee bit, well, tired. With my current push to get the old girl road legal I’ve ordered tires and checked the brake pads. Really, it’s time I showed the bike some love, especially after several years of being ridden hard and put away wet at Paris, literally.

I’ve ordered a pair of Duro HF319 from a local dealer, the tread pattern looks pretty vintage so they should look right.

DURO_HF-319

Part number : 113113

  • Designed as a general replacement tire
  • Excellent load carrying capabilities
  • Can be used as a front and rear tire
  • Excellent puncture resistance

I mean really, isn’t that the basic description of a tire?!

I will also look into getting a 16″ rim for the Velorex to lower the hack as it is currently wearing a 19″ – then perhaps I’ll need another Duro.

Sears Allstate Puch 175 60_57

click to enlarge

 

I came upon this page from a Sears catalogue a while back, it is a great illustration of the Puch badged as a Sears Allstate, although I think the illustrator didn’t understand how brake and clutch levers worked. I’m pretty intrigued by the brown sack outfit the guy on the left is wearing. Is that rain gear? 

 

 

 

 

posted by Fastback in mechanical,parts,Puch,restoration and have No Comments

Dead of winter – parts on order

Eight inches of snow fell in the last few days and it feels like winter! The garage is nice and cozy and Alison has kindly taken our children to her mother’s house for the weekend.  That leaves me free to waste time ordering motorcycle parts and dreaming of warm weather and children bouncing in the sidecar!

Yesterday while Paul and I were trying to master walnut shell blasting (not so good), I was looking at my Velorex 560 and realized I really should get it the proper sized rim and tire.  I had to take a look at the rim and try to figure out which is the hub I’ve got as it determines spoke length. I am ordering parts from http://www.jawamarkt.cz/en. The language is a bit odd on the website but I believe that “ribbing upward” refers to the 360 style of hub (shown below).

I am hoping that the shipping will be reasonable, but I’ve ordered some Hungarian tires too so it might be a bit heavy! I will use the same tires on the Puch as well – might as well go exotic!

360 Jawa hub

I need to rebuild the shocks and forks on the Puch, so I’ll place an order with the Austrians for parts soon. I suppose I should really look at the wheel bearings and brake shoes while I am pushing for road safety certification.

I need a rear tire for my Norton 750 Commando too and want to repair the bondo that poped out. This time I will use fiberglass to make up the difference and just use bondo for a final finish.

Dreams of BMW’s are on hold for the moment… sigh.

posted by Fastback in parts,restoration,Sidecar and have Comment (1)

it all went black

In my mania to get the bike together for the CVMG rally, I’ve sprayed the nacelle, chain guard and fender with Tremclad.  The nacelle is in the bbq as I type, the toddler is in her bed trying not to nap, and the baby is on the floor chewing whatever she can get her hands on…

hold the sauce

hold the sauce

On previous projects I’ve gone all out and sprayed professional primer, base and clear, the biggest challenge has always been dust, dust, dust but clear-coat is pretty forgiving and can be sanded and polished. This is my first attempt at shooting Tremclad for a nice finish. The paint is on old can of Tremclad (Canadian name, it’s Rustoleum in the US) It is a tough rust paint (as the name suggests).

IMG_0217_fender_prime

In the spray booth, ran out of grey primer, had to run out and get some...

I thinned the paint with Laquer Thinner (a quick drying solvent), and sprayed it with a compressor/gun, it does come in rattle cans too. I painted my trailer with it and I remember it taking forever to dry, like a week. IMG_0225_fender_primeI’ve used 2 part professional auto paints previously but for this I just wanted it black and shiny, I was also in a rush so into the bbq it goes. I read somewhere that a good bake at 300° will set it up, and it did do the trick. I was worried that it might create problems with the body filler and primer, but nope, all good. I let it dry for about 2 hours so it was just tacky to the touch, then I gave it a cook, my deep fry/candy thermometer read about 280°so I thought it would be safe. As there is no chemical reaction happening, just the evaporation of solvents I figure a bake is just expediting the process; someone commented on a forum that baking might interfere with the rate and order in which the solvents evaporate, I figure if it doesn’t wrinkle, then it’s ok. A funny thing has happened, the longer I stare at my neglected, rusty, corroded and oxidized motorcycle, the more I like it that way. Paul,  from the outset, insisted I should just give it the “oily rag” finish, I was bent on sandblasting my way to Germanic perfection. Now Malcolm is urging me to just leave it alone too. The problem is, I’ve made a shiny spot or two and now I’m at a crossroads. Do I continue making shiny parts, or beat up the new stuff to look old..?

IMG_0238_fender_black_1

Got some bubbling from a few spots of spot filler that didn’t dry long enough, but for this bike at this stage it is certianly good enough. Don’t be fooled the photos look great but there is lots of dust, some spits and bumps in it, but overall I am really happy with my cheap and cheerful paint job.

IMG_0238_fender_black

There are a few dips, dots and the bottom edge is a bit ragged from chipping that I didn’t chase after…

posted by Fastback in restoration and have No Comments

bondo, primer, fender, nacelle

IMG_0003_nacelle

filled and primed

At long last I am actually doing some real work on my ’68 Puch 250 SGS. I replaced the oil in the tank with some TC-W3, and I think I’ve burnt off  all the old 10-w30 that was lingering in the system, much less smoky now.

I’ve fitted the choke plate and it works great, the bike is a 2-3 kick start; replaced the lower bolt on the chain guard (flowed the brazing to remove the old bold, re-brazed a new one on; filled holes and primed the nacelle; repaired a crack in the fender, banged out a few of the dents, and slathered on a liberal coat of Bondo.

IMG_0103

removed a rusted/crumpled section out of the headlight edge.

I initially experimented with trying to stick weld the sheet metal, I know it can be done, but it is out of my skill range and I don’t have the time to practice. I did fill one hole on the nacelle  but opted to brass braze the others as it is faster and well within my skill range.

It is hard to articulate just how badly dented the front fender is, it resembles a sheet of paper that has been crumpled and smoothed out again, the shape is there more or less, just very lumpy. This can be seen in the picture where I ground off the paint before the resin filler. I’m using a quick-set filler, must say I love it, really speeds up the fill/ sand cycles.

IMG_0033_fender_bondo

first round of triage

The fender will make a thud sound when finished rather then the nice ringing ding of an all steel fender. I suppose I could buy a less abused fender off ebay, but that wouldn’t be quite right.

IMG_0030_fender_braze

Brazing the crack.

posted by Fastback in mechanical,restoration and have Comments (2)

Choke on this

In response to Ed’s implied question, and I paraphrase here, “What the hell have I been doing?”
I could drag out the usual answer of too many irons in too many fires, but this time I’m being vaguely logical about my target of being up and running for mid June. I asked myself “what need be done to ride?” The obvious answer of a choke sprang to mind. I did start and run the bike, but last time I tried it wanted to be choked… so off to the local Goodwill and $2.02 later I have a dog biscuit tin, soon to be a choke.
Here’s my progress so far….

IMG_0233_choke_process

posted by Fastback in parts,restoration and have No Comments